Interior Painting Tools and Supplies for House Painting
To attain the best interior finishes, it's critical to be prepared with the supplies
and tools that the painting project needs. While everybody's rooms, dimensions,
color tastes, sheens and desires do differ - these offer help and are compatible and
within most budgets.
Masking/Covering of Interior Surfaces & Flooring
- blue tape and more recently, green Frog tape for line painting
has become popular. For more confined detailed work, the 1" tape works well and
keeps expenses down. For masking off baseboard around carpeted areas the wide tape is recommended.
If any laminate surfaces are marginal in the way of potential lifting or seperation
(as with certain particleboard laminates) then test first with delicate surface
tape rather than setting and pulling off all at once later.
- the 4 mil 3' x 50' rolls of plastic are great for
when no seepage is desired, but the rolls have shot up in price over recent years,
going to $12 plus. For covering furniture, thin visqueen and interior drop cloths
and runners that are kept clean and dedicated for inside use are preferred (typically in
10' by 12', and 12' by 15' dimensions). These are especially important when
painting furnished units and rooms. If there is hardwood flooring that needs protection
and there is repetitive foot traffic as well, consider taping down rosin paper.
Caution: some drop cloths designed with a plastic or butyl backing can be flammable
and so should only be used with this in mind.
- a 6 foot or 8 foot step ladder for most wall heights. Scaffold
such as roll-away type staging for more continuous work, assuming the flooring
can handle it.
- a single screwdriver, that is equipped with changeout phillips
and flat head sizes, along with an empty bucket for depositing coverplates and
screws in consolidated form. Nail sets and hammer for countersinking any risen
nail heads (commonly "1/32", "1/16", "3/32") which are discovered. By simply
reversing it, the nail set can also be handy for countersinking any wall bumps, before patching.
- the 5 in 1 tool is always great to have around, including
for opening paint cans. A set of putty knives, including a down to a 1" blade
for patching small holes, the 3" to 4" for placing masking at
baseboard carpet, on up to up to wide blades of 6" or 8" for broader wall patches.
Never forgetting a mixing paddle and drill for more extensive wall and ceiling
patching along with of course the mud pan, either plastic or metal.
- nail hole putty should remain flexible,
for use around door millwork, trim and casings (with clean wiping rags & water
or solvent-based solution; for example, spirits when specified).
For dents and gouges in wood, vinyl patch is normally recommended
and is commonly sanded off. For prepping drywall areas of wall patch, either
lightweight joint compound, quick dry compound (setting-type compound/powder mix form)
or the premixed containers of lightweight compound such as Plus 3 (available in 4.5 gal containers
down to 1.0 gallons).
- interior suitable caulk, with a clean damp rag and rinse water.
A caulking gun with a hole piercing device.
Counter areas in the kitchen and bath areas, such as shower & tub surrounds should
receive tub and tile caulk - a tube usually goes the distance.
Sanding & Smoothing
- have on hand, sheets of sandpaper from fine to
medium grit (80 to 90 grit, 120 grit, 180/220 grit) for both rough and finish
sanding. The pole sander or a 'handled' sanding pad to maintain 'flatness' over
broader wall repair areas, the angular sanding blocks for getting into narrow,
- a small vacuum, toted around with the nozzle under
the sanding action for dust control. Erect a curtain for intensive sanding areas
while the dustless vacuum helps greatly (although starting at around $300).
Painting the Interior
- brushes; generally nylon brushes (unless natural brushes
for solvent-based paints) and the 2 1/2" and 3" sash brush for most applications.
Along with a decent wire brush for cleaning afterward before casing the brushes.
Rollers; for difficult-to-reach areas like behind commodes, the hot dog roller
frame, the 9" cage for walls, and either going with a 3/8" nap roller
cover (for paints having sheens such as eggshell, satin or semigloss) or
a 1/2" for rougher flatter surfaces (or else for applying a first coat on new drywall).
The woven naps are better to lessen the shedding effect. The 18" roller and tray intended
for high production environments like interior apartment painting.
To gain working leverage, the shorter roller pole for coating closets, a fixed
pole for most 9' ceilings and possibly extensible poles for reaching taller sections.
A spare roll of foil for wrapping wet rollers in, even overnight, will translate
to buying less covers and makes economic sense since the covers are disposable anyway.
Temporary Paint Containers
- either the 5 gallon bucket with insertable
grid (greater production), the equivalent in a 2 gal version such as for hot
dog roller applications, or the the tray pan with disposable liners. Single
empty gallon cans with lids or paint pots for brushing out of.
- items like clean rags, a disposable sharp blade, paint strainers and work lights with extension chords where needed.
- spare garbage bags for refuse, and a place to let the
empty paint cans dry out on the inside prior to their disposal. A razor tool
for cleaning any paint off glass. And a roll of paper towels for various cleanup.
The option of putting back new coverplates of at least the same size to hide any prior raised outlining effect.
- 'wet paint' signage to be posted, to prevent unintended contact with wet surfaces.
Empty quart containers for storing leftover paint for later matching/touch-up and empty gallons to pour
leftover paint into from 5 gallon pails. The magic marker for identifying cans as per recorded room/date applied.